Methods for Applying Hair Extensions
Hair extensions have been around for a while, but are growing in popularity.
Most methods for applying hair extensions are meant to be applied by a licensed cosmetologist. However, many people are determined to do it themselves. There are new methods available that are making this possible, however it is still recommended that a stylist be used for the best results, this is especially true when using adhesive for the application. You can expect application to take anywhere from 2 to five hours depending on application, quantity of extensions being added, and the speed of the stylist.
Hair extensions are not recommended for hair that is over-processed from the use of chemical treatments such as relaxing, bleaching, or perms, these can make the hair brittle and prone to breaking. Check with your stylist when in doubt.
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Most Popular Methods of Applying Hair Extensions
One of the most popular method of applying hair extensions, is strand by strand. A strand is usually about 30-50 pieces of hair that is applied using techniques such as weaving , fusion, clamping with metal tubes or using waxes and polymers.
Hair extensions can also be applied using wefts. A weft is a section of hair that is sewn together making a “curtain” of hair. The weft varies in width. The widest are made to go at the top from ear to ear at the widest part of your head. Then they get narrower as the move down toward the nape. They rang from 8” down to about 1 ½”. The smaller ones are for the sides of your hair. A weft can be made by a machine or by hand. Handmade wefts are a better quality. The extensions are then applied by using one row (track) at the time instead of strand by strand. And most commonly applied with tape or clips.
Before you attach any extensions, regardless of which method you decided to use, it is important to shampoo the hair to remove any dirt and natural oils from the hair then apply to dry hair.
Fusion – This method of applying hair extensions is done by using a special tool such as a connector or hot glue gun and adhesive made just for hair extensions. The hair is applied strand by strand to your own strands of hair, fusing the hair close to the scalp to the extension. The hair extensions can be bought already cut. You can also purchase a weft, but you will need to cut the weft into strands.
Cold Fusion- This is a method which uses a special tool to create an ultra sonic vibration to soften the bond. The bond is then is folded around the sections making the individual sealed bonds small, smooth and flat.
Pre-Tipped- this is strands of hair that has the adhesive already applied to the tips. The hair is applied using a special tool called a hair connecter. This tool is used to heat up the glue while pinching and holding the hair in place. The hair is attached to your hair strand by strand.
Removal – Anytime an adhesive is used, it requires a special adhesive remover. After the remover is applied, you then use a special tool pinch the hair and adhesive where it is attached, then comb the bond and extension out of your hair. Removal can be damaging to your hair.
Note: Many stylists are using the pre-tipped strands with micro rings.
This is because the pre-tipped glued ends keep the hair from shedding, and the no glue rings make this strand by strand application a winning combination.
Other Methods For Applying Hair Extensions
Micro Rings - Hair is attached with tiny rings that come in several colors for a close match to your hair color. They come in different sizes for different hair textures. Some of these micro products are made out of specially formulated polymer materials. Another material that is used for the micro rings is nickel. Both of these are used with a tool similar to a crochet hook that pulls a strand of your hair through the ring, you then slip the hair extension strand into the ring. Another tool is used to clamp the ring tight to hold the hair is place.
This is a great method that does not use glue and a great alternative for those afraid of the damage that glue may cause. This method is not recommended for hair that is brittle or extremely coarse.
Removal: is extremely easy but should be done by a professional to avoid breaking the hair. A special tool for opening the ring is used, and then the ring just slides off. These rings may be used more than once.
Note: Be sure to ask your stylist what the ring is made of. If you have an allergy to nickel you will not be able to wear them.
These methods of application can last for 3 to 6 months depending on how fast your hair grows. As your hair grows out the bonds will get lower on the hair. If your hair grows an average of ¼ of an in per week, then in 4 months they will be about 2” away from the scalp. At this point they might become visible or just make styling a little difficult. So it’s time to take them out and have new ones put in. Normal wear time is approximately 4 months but if your hair is finer 3 may be the maximum. If your hair grows slower you could wear them for up to 6 months, but any thing past that and you’re risking damage to your hair.
Taping – Taping is becoming a very popular method. Two sided tape is applied to the weft of hair and then attached to the root of the hair. This method is very easy to apply for those who want to do it themselves. Some hair extensions can be bought pre-taped. This helps you with the ease of application and saves you some time.
This method of application is a temporary method lasting up to a week. You can use additional adhesive for more staying power which also extends the wear time.
The hair can be reused, however new tape must be applied.
Removal requires a special adhesive removal.
Bonding - Bonding is the process of applying adhesive to the entire weft itself, then laying it at the root on top of your own hair. Because this is not done strand by strand it is less time consuming, this in turn means less cost for the client.
This method does not last as long. As your hair grows out the weft moves further away from the scalp. This method last about 4 to 6 weeks.
Removal also requires a special bond adhesive remover.
Anytime an adhesive is used you are taking a risk that may cause damage to your hair.
Weaving –With this process it requires the stylist to create several small corn rows that run horizontally across your head. A Corn row is a tight braid at the scalp. The hair extension strand is sewn to the row close to the scalp. This is another lengthy process but since no glue is used, it is less damaging to the hair.
This method does not last quite as long, but can last for 4 to 6 weeks depending on how fast your hair grows. This is because as your hair grows out the corn row grows further away from the scalp causing the braid and extension to loosen. If removed carefully the strands may be reused.
A Great Method For Applying Hair Extensions
Clip-Ins This is becoming the most popular method of hair extensions, and for good reason. Although many professionals are using them, they are mostly being purchased by the do it yourselfers. This is because the application is literally a “snap”. Hair comes in a weft with the clips already attached.
A draw back of this method is that these are just a temporary solution, and need to be applied and removed daily. However there are several upsides. No glue, doing it yourself saves you the cost of having a stylist apply them, and you can put them in and take them out as you please, and it’s a process that in the beginning only takes about 15 minutes. The more practice you get the quicker you will become.

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